I'm No Galloping Gourmet Or Naked Chef, But I Do Love The F Word!

I started as a "Full Monty" breakfast man, and now Sarah can't get me out of the kitchen...and she loves it.

Mark Raynes Roberts

That’s F for food of course!

Sarah’s in the big city this Thursday, so I’m keeping The Choice For Beauty Substack cooking, so to speak by filling in for.

As you probably would expect being a Brit, one of my favorite things to make is slow-cooked Prime Rib Pot Roast, with roasted vegetables, Yorkshire puddings, my special gravy and horseradish sauce.

I thought I would do something completely different and write about one of my favorite pastimes these days, which is cooking.

As most Brits would attest, food during the 1970’s was generally pretty bad (with the exception of a few top restaurants.) The smell of steamed cabbage still pervades my memory bank. That was served with Sunday dinners and it was usually so over-cooked, there wasn’t any nutritional value left. I shouldn’t say this really, but my dear mother could take a handsome roast beef joint and reduce it to boot leather. The beef slices would have to be cut so thin to enable mastication without choking. I sound awful to “let the cat out the bag” but cooking wasn’t her forte, and it wasn’t until I came to Canada in the early 80’s that I finally got to appreciate how steak should be cooked and really taste.

The truth back then was that Brits were not known for being gourmets; that was the exclusive arena of the French. And it wasn’t until the likes of Albert and Michel Roux arrived in London to open Le Gavroche in 1967, (the first 3-star Michelin restaurant in the U.K. in 1982) that things began to change. Their expertise in traditional French cuisine established them as the benchmark for fine food in the U.K., and it was thanks to them that chefs such as Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay, Pierre Koffmann and Riccardo De Pra dramatically improved British culinary art.

Up until then, the British TV viewing public had only been exposed to the matronly Fanny Cradock and Zena Skinner. Then came Graham Kerr, “The Galloping Gourmet” who arrived on the scene with his boyish smile and glass of wine in hand - always having a short slurp! He was a breath of fresh air. Born in London, he had emigrated to New Zealand, (getting married to wife Treena), before finding fame with the Canadian-produced TV series “The Galloping Gourmet” which aired between 1968 - 1972. The cooking shows back then weren’t anywhere near as health conscious as they are today, with lots of double cream and clarified butter. (although the Two Fat Ladies did perpetuate that “care less’ genre well into the 90’s)

I’m not sure how many of you are familiar with Jacques Pepin, but his memoir, “The Apprentice” is a delightful read about his amazing life as a chef and I highly recommend it.

In 2003, a friend suggested I buy a copy of Jacques Pepin’s captivating memoir, The Apprentice, which follows his humble childhood, working in his mother’s bistro near Lyon during the Second World War. After the war he eventually left home as a young teenager to learn his trade as a sous chef in Geneva, Switzerland. His rise to the very best kitchens in France was meteoric, eventually becoming Charles de Gaulle’s personal chef. The book has wonderful insights about his passion for food, and his decision to move to the United States in 1959, where he quickly established himself with the U.S. culinary elite of the time that included Julia Child and James Beard. He was responsible for elevating cuisine across the country, consulting with major hotel chains and becoming a popular TV personality alongside Child who considered Pepin “the best chef in America” at the time.

As some of you may know, I’m a bit of a cinephile, and have to mention the Danish movie "Babette’s Feast” (1987) which I saw on its release, and became the Oscar Winner for Best Foreign Film in 1988. Written by author Karen Blixen, it was directed by Gabriel Axel, and is a wonderful story. Set in 19th century Denmark, it involves a strict religious sect in the remote seaside village of Jutland. The community takes in a French refugee from the Franco-Prussian War as a servant who just so happens to be a superb cook. It’s a gentle tale about sharing, acceptance, and the joy of food, and to see the faces of the pious village elders tasting Babette’s delicious creations is very amusing.

So if you’re a foodie, it’s well worth watching.

Before I go on, if anyone is interested in any of my featured dishes, please feel free to send me a message and I will be glad to share the recipes with you. As we are heading into the fall and winter season, I love making tasty comfort food for the family, such as hearty casseroles and stews, bake tray dinners, and my favorite Sunday roast beef.

Happiness is good food on the table, and here are some of the offerings I whip up for Sarah and the family with the help of our grandson Henry! Lamb Mint Shepherd’s Pie, (top left) Chicken Thighs with Prunes and Vegetables in White Wine Jus, Beef Pot Roast dinner with Mark’s Roastie Potatoes!

I learnt to cook a typical “Full Monty” English breakfast as a boy, but when I arrived in Canada at 21 and had to fend for myself, my culinary skills were severely lacking, usually involving throwing a tin of sauce into a pan which wasn’t very inspiring.

I didn’t really start cooking with interest until 2005, when I was newly divorced and “necessity definitively became the mother of invention.” I began cooking simple meals such as omelets, steak frites, beef bourguignon, and making three types of Indian and Thai curry for my growing sons who loved our Friday curry nights. Amazingly, all five of our sons are excellent cooks in their own right, a result I believe of how celebrity chefs like Jamie (Oliver); Marco (Pierre White); Yotam (Ottolenghi); Marcus (Wareing); and Gordon (Ramsay) have changed the landscape of making it cool for men to be in the kitchen. Those chefs have become like rock stars in a way. You only have to hear their first name and you know who they are…just like Beyonce, Prince, Sting, Adele and Madonna.

“From quiet homes and first beginning, out to the undiscovered ends, there’s nothing worth the wear of winning, but laughter and the love of friends.” Hilaire Belloc

One of the other reasons I truly enjoy cooking is entertaining our family and friends. I much prefer it to eating out in restaurants. Sarah and I both enjoyed the restaurant scene in Toronto when we were younger, checking out the latest new hot spot. But when we eat out now it tends to be at places where the food is simple, fresh and the place has a friendly relaxed vibe. We no longer have the desire to eat miniscule portions of seafoam encrusted scallop, (that can only be caught on a Tuesday) and where you end up paying an exorbitant amount for the privilege. Give me a crowded table at home with friends, some reasonable wine, home-made food and I’m in my element. The breaking of bread is one of the great joys of life.

As an artist, I’ve always loved presentation so setting a beautiful table in a way that makes guests feel truly welcomed is important. A good friend of ours Laura Calder who you might know from her cooking show “French Food At Home” on the Food Network Canada, is also a big believer in how we should invest the time and energy into entertaining with style. Her book The Inviting Life (2017) is well worth reading for learning about entertaining, and Laura also hosts the Laura Calder UTube Channel alongside husband Peter, sharing anecdotes on hospitality and their travels. Laura’s also written several other cookery books including  French Food At Home, (2003) French Taste: Elegant Everyday Eating, (2009) The Fine Art Of Feeding Friends, (2011)  and Paris Express: Simple Food From The City Of Style, (2014) and a book of essays called, Kitchen Bliss (2023).

It’s such a pleasure entertaining our friends during the summer, and personalizing each guest's table place with a hand-inscribed name pebble from the beach makes it extra special.

My repertoire of summer dishes has grown to include fresh Halibut with Pesto Pecan Crust, Thai Curry Chicken Thighs with Coconut Cream Sauce, three mushroom Rigatoni Pasta with Sundried Tomato, Leek and Parmesan, and Peppered Salmon with Pecans, fresh Ginger, and Lemon Zest. My go-to appetizers are Peppered Smoked Salmon on toasted Pita Bread with Cream Cheese, Capers, Lemon Zest; fresh thin Asparagus cooked al dente and wrapped in Prosciutto; and my latest cracker offering of grilled Gorgonzola Cheese with Moroccan dates. It has been a hit this summer.

Clockwise, Halibut with Pesto and Bread Crumb Crust, Thai Chicken Coconut Curry with Leeks and Sweet Potato, Mushroom and Sun Dried Tomato Rigatoni and Parmesan, Asparagus with Prosciutto, Salmon Ginger, Pecan with Orange zest, Peppered Smoked Salmon appetizer with Cream Cheese, Capers and Lemon Zest.

When Sarah and I first met it was at a dinner party she was hosting in honor of popular CBC Radio host, Andy Barrie, who was about to retire from the publicly funded broadcaster. Apparently, (and I can’t verify or deny this) it was apparent to the other guests at the table that there was an immediate freson between the pair of us, and I suppose it was true. As I sent Sarah a thank you note the following day, suggesting I cook dinner for her at my place the following week and the rest is history.

I’m not a cook who really follows recipes in particular, (I know enough to put a stew together for instance) but rather enjoy putting my own twist on things. Compared to my good friend Ken who is an exceptional cook, I’m still a novice and I freely admit to the fact. The extraordinary thing with Ken is that when he’s not running a major International Resource Corporation you can usually find him experimenting in his home kitchen making the finest gourmet creations.

My friend Ken is a master chef extraordinaire, when not deal making or watching PL football.

In fact before we moved to Chester, Sarah and I had the good fortune of being invited by Ken and his lovely wife Annabel, to two special gourmet dinners at their home. The first dinner highlighted roast venison cooked to perfection in a reduced blackcurrant jus, which was to die for. And the second, (our farewell dinner) the most tender Beef Wellington with wild mushrooms and spinach, (see above) covered in golden lattice of pastry, served with braised carrots and potato dauphinoise. Both dishes were simply out of this world culinary experiences, and it is always such a treat to be spoilt. Ken’s so talented and I miss his cooking, but nobody’s perfect as he also supports Liverpool FC for his sins! (I’m a Man Utd supporter)

The Canadian culinary scene has flourished over the past 40 years with chefs such as Michael Stadtlander, whose Eigensinn Farm restaurant was once rated in the top 10 restaurants in the world by UK based Restaurant Magazine. Today, the top three restaurants in Canada are “Mon Lapin” in Montreal, (chef Marc-Olivier Frappier) “Edulis” in Toronto, (Tobey Nemeth & Michael Caballo) and “Alo,” (chef Patrick Kriss) again in Toronto. In 2019, Sarah and I enjoyed an amazing 13 course tasting menu at Alo, seated at the chef’s kitchen table watching Patrick and his team perform, all thanks to a specially sponsored BMW evening. (Thank you Marc)

The growing world of TV chef celebrity was elevated during the 90’s by the incomparable chef Keith Floyd, whose joie de vivre was legendary, and it was he who laid the ground work for today’s TV chef’s.

Since moving to Chester, Nova Scotia, we have enjoyed traveling around the province and have eaten at some wonderful restaurants such as the “Founders House” in Annapolis Royal, (chef Chris Pyne) “Edna” in Halifax, (owner, Heather Townsend & Cora Tudor) “Beach Pea” in Lunenburg, (Sylvie and Martin Ruiz Salvador) and “The Canteen on Portland” in Dartmouth (chef Renée Lavallée). It’s wonderful to see the vibrancy of these young chefs in Nova Scotia. With the pandemic finally behind us, the future looks bright.

One of the great pleasure’s in life is sharing our home with friends. The joy of cooking is something we can all take up at any time, and it's the best way to share our lives with those we love. As chef Anthony Bourdain once said…

Food is everything we are. It’s an extension of nationalist feeling, ethnic feeling, your personal history, your province, your region, your tribe, your grandma. It’s inseparable from those from the get-go. Good food is very often, even most often, simple food.

I’m with Anthony on that one.

Time to get back in the kitchen, and I'll be back on Sunday.

Marco

Preparing an Atlantic Salmon dinner with Ginger, Crushed Pecans and Orange Zest, and vegetables of Balsamic Tomatoes, Fresh Buttered Asparagus and home-made Potato Salad.